2010 Audi Q5, Q7 Lease Rates – November 2009

Published: 2009/11/11Posted in: AudiTags: Audi, Money Factor, Q5, Q7, Residual

logo_audi My Take: Q5 and Q7 numbers got worse overall, but not by much. AFS didn’t lower the MF enough to compensate for the drop in residual value; therefore, you will probably pay a few bucks more this month compared to last. I’m not seeing any cash on the Q5 or the Q7, but the usual 2.9% and 3.9% APR loans for purchasing are available. If I where shopping for a Q5 right now, I would probably go with the Q5 Premium Plus, 36-month, 12k miles per year, AudiCare (to add 1% to residual). That would put me at 50% residual @ 0.00105 or 2.52% APR. Not bad, cheaper than most auto loans rought now. I don’t think MSDs would be necessary, but an aggressive sale price will be in order to keep things low. Close or at invoice is what I would aim for since Audi does not have holdbacks and there is no dealer/customer cash anywhere in sight. As for the Q7. I would personally go with the TDI Premium Plus on the following terms: 36-month, 12k miles per year, AudiCare. In addition, I would drop some multiple security deposits to bring down the MF further. Q7s are thristy trucks, so opting for the TDI would be wiser in my opinion. If you don’t care about the fancy bells and whistles on the Premium Plus, you can also opt for the Premium which will boost your residual 3% and lower your payments significantly.

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2010 Audi Q5

2010 Audi Q7

49 Comments

G

Posted December 10, 2009 at 9:14 AM

@alex. generally i don’t like posting the unconventional lease terms because i dont’ recommend them for most people. Many states, such as CA, have yearly registration renewals and expensive ones too. Paying for full year and only driving the car 3 months or 6 months and having to pay it again really doesn’t make sense to me. Another thing is the tire wear. 42 months is just too long which means $200+ per tire when lease is up. Too much money, not worth it to me. besides, most dealers I talk to don’t recommend them because that’s just a way for banks to cut your lease short and bring you back into the showroom.

As for you lease is concerned, looks like you took like almost 8% off the MSRP on this car. I was expecting about 7% at most. Not bad at all.
Alex

Posted December 10, 2009 at 9:41 AM

G,
as far as I’m aware of there is only $1000 loyalty credit available if you had Audi and you are leasing Audi again. What $3000 cash are you talking about? can elaborate please?
Thanks
Alex

Posted December 10, 2009 at 9:54 AM

so what you are saying is : 42 month unconventional lease term and 48 conventional lease term? You did post 48 month term… it is a good point regarding tires.
G

Posted December 10, 2009 at 10:20 AM

@alex. http://www.edmunds.com/incentives/RebateController?styleid=101202555&popuppage=on
There’s a $1000 and a $2000. They said it can be combined with current incentives and special lease promos. Definitely worth verifying with the dealer. Would be nice to get both.

For unconventional, I mean any lease that ends before a year. 27, 30, 39, 42. The 27 and 30 month leases end before the 36 month cycle, which means paying registration twice in one year. 39 and 42 month leases end before 48 months, so you have to pay for a full 4th year and only drive it 3-6 months and then you pay again. Registration fees in CA are around $400 per year for a $35,000 car. So you can imagine how much it would be for a car that’s in the 50k-60k range. Right now, I have 32k miles on my wife’s TSX and the tires look like they are in good shape (I rotate them every oil change), so at 36k, I think the tires should still hold up. I’ve leased 48 month leases twice before and I have had to replace tires on them about 6 months before the end of the lease (or 42 months). I will never do that again. My G37 lease is a 39 month lease right now and I really regret it because 36 month lease wasn’t all the much more. However, I plan to take advantage of Infiniti’s “pull-ahead” program (if available then) to get off 3 months before it ends.
Alex

Posted December 10, 2009 at 10:50 AM

I got it…I’m glad I found this site.. Thanks man for your help
I think $2000 rebate is for TDI model.. no?
is dealer allow to hide this rebate/s and not telling about to consumer?
Alex

Posted December 10, 2009 at 12:00 PM

I think it’s $1000 for lease and $2000 for finance/purchase
G

Posted December 10, 2009 at 1:27 PM

yes, any unclaimed customer cash ends up being dealer profit, so you have to be well inform when it comes to rebates.
Alex

Posted December 11, 2009 at 10:24 AM

Thanks again G.

I just realized that when I left a deposit, on the receipt there is no VIN number. Is this something I should I wary about?
Alex

Posted December 11, 2009 at 10:26 AM

The dealers says there is no VIN # yet…
G

Posted December 11, 2009 at 10:50 AM

I wouldn’t be too concern about it. Its just a deposit, you can always get it back if the deal falls through. As long as no papers are signed and the deposit isn’t cash, I think are fairly well protected.
Jillian Goldberg

Posted December 13, 2009 at 9:58 AM

Have you ever had a dealer not provide MF and residuals they are using when negotiating a deal. We were at an Audi dealer in California looking at a Q5 Prestige w/Sline and negotiated a car price of $53500. With 5K down, he came back with a payment of $1195 and said the residual was 41%. I went home and did the math (#1 that residual seems way low compared to published) and the only way they can get to that Monthly payment is if they use a Money Factor of .00434 (10.42%). I know the Prestiges are hard to get, but this seems ridiculous.

Help – any thoughts?
msf83

Posted December 13, 2009 at 2:33 PM

If they won’t provide it don’t do business with them.

$1195 a month w/ 5k down for a $53k car is utterly insane.
Alex

Posted December 14, 2009 at 8:46 AM

it happened to me too when a salesman did not want to give me MF and RV.
Try to tell them that you are ready to do the deal… You can always say NO
They are like a women you need to make them jealous and hungry
G

Posted December 15, 2009 at 10:21 AM

@jillian. I have always pushed a dealer to provide me with the money factor and residual value. Any dealer that refuses to do so risks losing business from me. The fact is, if I am going to borrow money from someone, I need to know how much I am borrowing and how much interest I am going to be charged. It is a consumer’s right to know those numbers PRIOR to signing a contract. Now regarding your lease, I would NEVER lease a Q5 for nearly $1200 per month with $5k. That’s an insult if you ask me. Feel free to disclose the dealership if you want to, so the rest of us know who to avoid.
john

Posted December 15, 2009 at 12:49 PM

Hey there – this website is great.

Got the following quote – 2010 Q5 Premium Plus with Navigation. 36/12 with $2500 out of pocket and inclusive of my $500 loyalty money. The lease is $675 to $689 per month.

Is this a good deal?
Alex

Posted December 15, 2009 at 1:10 PM

Hey G,
DO you remember I mentioned to you that there is no vin # on my receipt.
I got a phone call from the dealership that the car I was looking for was sold out. They are refunding my deposit but they did run my credit report prior getting the car… do you have any comments?
G

Posted December 15, 2009 at 2:01 PM

@john. I am going to need more information than that to estimate your payments properly. Please provide the MSRP, Sale Price, MF, Residual used to derive those payments. IF you can get more details about the fees your paying, that would be great as well.
G

Posted December 15, 2009 at 2:11 PM

@alex. wow, that is wicked of them to do that to you, specially after running your credit. I would get in the face of the GM and ask them to find you an alternate vehicle that fits your requirements. That is so unprofessional of them. I once put down a deposit on my 2001 325i while it was on the boat. I never got the vin, but I did get enough details about the car to feel comfortable enough that I was putting a deposit on something. I never had my credit run though, so I don’t know what that was all about. Just a note for everyone, DO NOT have your credit run until there’s a car on the driveway and you a ready to sign finance papers to take that baby home. Get yourself a free FICO report and bring it with you if the dealer is skeptical to deal with you, but do not have your credit run unless the car is on the lot. I guard my credit score pretty tightly. I’ve had a Nissan sales guy wanting to run my credit just to test drive a Z. He’s reason was “this is a very expensive car and we want to make sure you are serious”. Haahaa. Right. This is Schaier’s Nissan & Hyundai of Long Beach. AVOID!!!! I test drove four G37s (coupe and sedans) multiple times and not once did they run my credit.
Alex

Posted December 15, 2009 at 2:30 PM

hah thanks for your quick reply. guess what?? they called me to offer different car which cost more ~$60 a month and I said no I do not want this car just proceed with my refund. Then the guy came back to me and said we can offer you this Q7 for the same price….. I’m like what????
G

Posted December 15, 2009 at 2:33 PM

@alex. tell him you want to see ALL the numbers. They owe it to you after all. All these games, I tell you. Remember, if the leasing experience starts to go south, move on. Not worth the hassle.
Jay

Posted December 15, 2009 at 4:03 PM

Hey G,

Thanks so much for your comments. Ok. I just got a quote for a 2010 Q7, 3.6, Premium Plus, 20 inch wheels and running boards. MSRP: 56475, Negotiated Price: 53573. The numbers just about the same as what you have: 36-month | 10k miles | residual 47% | .00163 base money factor. They have me at $881 a month, with 5650 down. That sounds high to me… Am I missing something, or is that a legit number? Remember I live in NYC, so I know that shoots some numbers up.

Thanks!
G

Posted December 17, 2009 at 9:43 AM

@jay. It looks like you are basically paying for all inception fees upfront + sales tax. The payments are in line with the MSRP, sale price, MF and residual. No problems there. I would recommend getting a breakdown of the $5650 to make sure the money is going to the right places. Lastly, I think you need to knock down the price some more. You are getting barely 5% off the sticker price ($2902). I would suggest shooting for 6-7% instead, so about $500-$1000 more off what you already have knocked off. That should drop the payments down $20-$30 and save you a little bit on the drive off too.
Alex

Posted December 18, 2009 at 9:12 AM

G,
Ok I finally got my Q7. it’s $700/m 42m prim plus. MSRP 56,325 plus Audi care
$4300 out of pocket incl taxes.
I know you do not recommend to pay taxes up front but I’ve learned when you adding taxes to your monthly payment you are actually paying more because the interest will be applied to your taxes too. The Interest is ~$400.
They charge taxes on $1000 loyalty credit too. It’s a robbery…
People this process is insane… I went true hell before I got this numbers…
G

Posted December 21, 2009 at 9:31 AM

@alex. if your state requires taxes to be paid up front, then there probably isn’t much you can do about it. And you are correct that by paying your taxes upfront, you do save on financing. However, it all depends on how that is applied. If your dealer rolls in taxes into the vehicle, then takes your cash as cap cost reduction, you are essentially paying taxes on your taxes. Haahaa. Wicked isn’t it? But yes, they tax you on everything you put in and I concur with it being an insane process.